Моя поездка в Дагестан. День четвертый

Четвертый день. На четвертый день у нас была запланирована поездка в Гуниб, на водопады.

Сперва все сорвалось через турагентство. Потом — напрямую с гидом [мне было уже наплевать на деньги, время отдыха заканчивалось]. Причем выяснилось все в 12 ночи, когда найти замену было невозможно.

Но после серпантина немного иначе смотришь на вещи, которые зависят не от тебя. Да и вообще, горы меняют многое.

Поэтому я не стала упираться рогом и полезла в Гугл.

В Гугле я нашла информацию о Самурском природном национальном парке. Уникальный лианный лес. Цветущий лотос. Птички-рыбки.

Поехали. Сразу скажу, что по деньгам эта «поездка» вышла больше, чем на Хучни, а удовольствия…

1. Я бы не назвала это парком. Парк — это нечто цивилизованное, территориально огражденное, имеющее по дороге четкие ориентиры.

Мы же ехали именно в «лес». Слово «парк» местные, у которых мы спрашивали дорогу, не воспринимали.

2. Без указания местных дорогу фиг найдешь. Дорога, которая, по логике должна была привезти хоть куда-то, как в мультиках, закончилась тупиком. Она (асфальтированная дорога с разметкой) уперлась в ворота жилого дома.

3. Парк, лес или как там его, наверное, будет интересен ботаникам. В смысле, людям, которые хоть что-то понимают во всей окружившей нас, наконец, буйной растительности.

Я не понимала ничего. Никаких лиан я не видела. Никаких водоемов, где можно было бы поискать лотос (пусть и не цветущий) тоже. Дорожек нет. Есть проезды, как в нашем обычном лесу.

Прошлись по парочке. Вглубь я не полезла: местные говорили, что сейчас много змей. По этой причине советовали быть крайне аккуратными в Сосновом бору у крепости.

Вот так вот побывав в Самурском лесу, посмотрев на реку Самур [а это точно была река?], мы поехали обратно.

День явно не задался))

На обратном пути еще и дождь начался. Поэтому купаться в Хазар мы не поехали.

Расстроенная по самое «не могу», я оставила А. в гостинице и пошла одна в город куда глаза глядят.

А в городе перед глазами всегда — Нарын-кала. Ну, думаю, ступенек много, идти высоко, как раз разомнусь, авось организм от нагрузки серотонинчика подбросит, зачтет за тренировку.

Не. До Нарын-кала я добралась, но к тому времени мне настолько надоело пролетать с деньгами (по дороге я умудрилась быть обманутой с чуду), что заходить в крепость я уже не хотела.

Увидела вывеску: табасаранское чуду. В чем, спрашиваю, отличие от обычного? Да ни в чем. Маркетинг это. Пробуйте.

Не могу, говорю, мясное чуду с луком, а у меня аллергия. Мне распахнули тесто: где тут лук?!

Посмотрела — вроде и правда нет.

Стала пробовать, а он с луком. Хорошо, что моя реакция не анафилактический шок, а всего лишь волдыри.

Сказать, что я расстроилась — не сказать ничего. Все, думаю, уйду в горы, пусть меня там волки съедят.

Блин. Когда я психую, я сама себя боюсь, потому что творю такое…

В этот раз я, поднявшись к крепости, решительно повернула влево, к тропке, которая едва не вертикально вела куда-то вверх.

Люди смотрели косо. Я перлась совсем не туристическим путем.

Забравшись наверх [как я, интересно, спускаться буду?], я пошла дальше.

Нарын-кала «показала спину», а я ликовала: все, как туристы там, внизу. А я — путешественница и все такое.

Здравый смысл орал: Маша, ты в горах, одна!

Я: я пройду вон до того поворота, тут все обозревается. И вернусь, честно.

Не успела я дойти до поворота, как навстречу мне вышли трое мужчин.

Достаточно прямо спросили, что [какого фига] я тут делаю и ха-ха «девушка не боится змей». А в глазах читалось «вот из-за таких дур у нас потом репутация дикарей» и выделили мне проводника.

Теперь Маша в горах была не одна, а наедине с каким-то левым мужиком.

Но расстройство во мне еще не улеглось, и Маша продолжала жечь дальше.

Мы облазали близлежащий склон по тропе, при взгляде на которую еще вчера я бы получила инфаркт, а тут на адреналине и ничего вроде. С тропы пару раз шарахались змеи. Я орала не столько на них, сколько на «они не ядовитые, хотите поймаю?»

Потом прошли мимо какой-то хибары, куда меня позвали на чай.

Адреналин улегся, я искала возможность аккуратно смыться, не делая резких движений.

Вид, действительно, открывался потрясающий. Трещал джуджук [айзербайджанское название жука, который «стрекочет» похоже на кузнечика, но очень громко], горный воздух, дым костра.

Несмотря на то, где я была и с кем, все было [относительно] под контролем. До тех пор, пока человек не вытащил спиртное.

По моему глубочайшему убеждению спиртное обнажает человека. И выяснять, каков мой спутник на самом деле я не собиралась. Тем более, что определенные моменты в разговоре уже заставили меня напрячься [адреналин подулегся и здравый смыл ехидничал: а я говорил!], я держалась метрах в двух, «отвлекаясь» на вид, растущий миндаль, держа отход свободным и готовая дать деру.

Я симулировала звонок А. и в прямом смысле рванула с места: бла-бла, домой надо, ребенку плохо, и бегом понеслась вниз. Спутник рванул за мной: я помогу.

Мне пришлось для поддержания легенды взять такси, он решил меня проводить до места, еле уговорила, что позвоню позже.

Вот такое приключение. 40 лет, а ума…

Домой приехала, все, говорю, из номера сегодня больше не выйду. Все наперекосяк.

Самурский национальный природный парк
Нетуристический обзор Нарын-кала
«Спина» Нарын-кала

Моя поездка в Дагестан. День четвертый: 533 комментария

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  102. He is survived by his spouse, Ellen C Hume, at the house; 2 daughters, Mrs Jerry (Maria) Schreiber, Richland, WA; Mrs Dan (Darlene) Portch, Wilbur, WA; 1 step-daughter, Mrs Irene Bonner, Spokane, WA; one brother, John Hume, Deming, WA; 2 sisters, Mrs Alice Owen, Bellingham, WA; Mrs Josie Little, Creston, WA; 9 grandchildren; 2 nice grandchildren; quite a few nieces and nephews.

  103. Survived by one daughter, Mrs Mariam H Bagley, of Govan, WA; 3 sons, Maurice C Draper, of Wilbur, WA; William L Draper, Mansfield, WA; Ward Draper, Govan, WA; 8 grandchildren; 29 nice grandchildren; 3 nice-nice grandchildren.

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